Wash the Dog

Now that you have selected all the appropriate products and set up the required equipment, it is time to fetch the dog that needs to be washed!

Identify the Dog to Be Washed

When multiple dogs are at your workplace, you must select the correct dog to be washed. Refer to your work instructions and check the required dog’s breed, colour, sex, age and name. Many workplaces will also have a photograph of the dog on file.

Compare the description with the dogs present in the housing area. While learning to recognise different breeds on sight, you may need to confirm the breed with your supervisor or other more experienced colleague.

If there are two dogs of the same breed, colour, sex and age, check for other distinguishing features and compare them with the photograph, if one is available. Calling the dog’s name and seeing if it responds may be an effective way to distinguish between very similar-looking dogs.

Interpret the Dog’s Behaviour

Handling animals is inherently risky. They can behave unpredictably and cause injury to you and themselves if not responded to or handled appropriately. So, before you attempt to handle the dog, conduct a distance assessment of its behaviour.

A distance assessment is where you observe the dog and its behaviour from a distance. Based on your observations of the dog’s behaviour, you should be able to evaluate its arousal level and emotional state. Choose the most appropriate low stress handling techniques based on the dog’s behaviour, arousal level and emotional state.

Arousal Level and Emotional State

Arousal level is how alert and ready for action the dog is. Calm dogs have a much lower arousal level than highly excited or agitated dogs. Arousal levels are often given traffic light colours, as shown in the following image, to indicate how responsive the dog is to human commands and how predictable and desirable its behaviour is likely to be.

When dogs are at green arousal levels, they will respond well to human interaction and display calm but alert behaviours. As arousal levels continue to increase, the dog will reach threshold and start to become unpredictable. If the dog becomes overstimulated, they are likely to display undesirable (unwanted) behaviours. These undesirable behaviours may be dangerous for the handler.

It is best not to interact with a dog that is in the red zone for arousal level. Try to remove the thing that is causing the dog to be overstimulated, wait 30 minutes for it to calm down, and then try again.

The emotional state of a dog will typically influence its arousal level. The more intense the dog feels its emotional state, the higher its arousal level will rise. Emotional states can be positive - seeking, lust, care and play – or negative – rage, fear and panic. Regardless of whether the dog is in a positive or negative emotional state, if the arousal level rises above threshold, it may be too dangerous to attempt to handle it. In other words, a dog that is overexcited, jumping and barking and desperate to play is just as unpredictable and likely to cause you injury as a fearful dog that is growling, lunging and snapping.

It is typically safest to handle animals when they are in a neutral emotional state and green arousal level – calm but alert.

Signs of a Calm but Alert Dog

Dogs that are calm but alert tend to show the following behaviours. A dog does not need to show all these behaviours to be considered calm. It is also important to remember that some of these behaviours will present differently in different breeds as a result of different ear shapes, tail sets and coat types.

Calm but Alert Dogs tend to:

• look directly but not intensely at you
• have slightly dilated pupils
• have a relaxed, or tense but not furrowed brow
• prick their ears and turn them towards you
• hold their lips fairly loose and their mouth open slightly
• have relaxed or very slightly raised hair on their tail, withers and croup
• hold their tail relaxed or raised, may be wagging (Fear Free n.d.).

Signs of a Stressed Dog

Stress is another term for an over-threshold arousal level. Dogs in a negative emotional state will quickly reach over-threshold if the stimulus (the thing causing them stress) is not removed.

Stress causes the flight or fight response in dogs. Common behavioural signs of a dog in flight or fight mode are described in the following table. Again, a dog does not need to show all the signs for you to consider it over-threshold. Even a few of these undesirable behaviours are enough for you to back off and let the dog calm down before you attempt to handle it again. Dogs that are at yellow levels of arousal may be calmed down with your intervention. However, dogs at red arousal levels should be left alone.

The following table, adapted from Fear Free (n.d.), lists the common behaviours of a stressed dog in four categories. A dog may very quickly switch between the different modes if the stressful stimulus is not removed, and you will be at high risk of being scratched or bitten.

Behavioural indicators of a stressed dog at
Yellow arousal levels	Slow movements or fidgety – unable to settle Hesitant but not avoiding interacting with you or very attention-seeking Refuses treats, or takes them roughly Head turning away and other coping behaviours Moderate pupil dilation Furrowed brow Tight mouth Ears pulled slightly back or to the side Tail down, but not tucked between its legs
Red arousal levels	'Freeze' mode	'Flight' mode	'Defensive' aggression	'Offensive' aggression
	Tonic immobility (a natural state of temporary paralysis) Trembling Full body tension High respiratory rate Body hunched to appear smaller Pupils are fully dilated Closed mouth Ears pulled back Tail is tucked between its legs	Active attempts to escape – Slinking, running away, pushing up against the back of the cage Pupils are fully dilated Showing the whites of its eyes Furrowed brow Mouth closed or excessive panting Tongue tight Ears pulled back Tail is tucked between its legs	Hair up on back and rump Body hunched to appear smaller Active attempts to escape Pupils are fully dilated Direct and intense eye contact Showing all teeth Ears pulled back Tail is tucked between its legs	Lunging forwards Hair raised on withers, croup and tail Pupils are constricted Lip pucker - lips pulled forward Only showing front teeth Tongue tight and thin Ear pricked and facing forwards Tail raised

Safe and Low Stress Handling Techniques

Best practice handling techniques are low stress for the dog, and handling a calm dog is safer for you and the dog.

The first step of low stress handling is your approach to the dog. The following approach techniques are suitable for most breeds and situations.

Approach the dog:

• quietly and calmly, in a non-threatening manner so as not to startle it
• from the side or slightly behind, rather than from directly in front of it
• using slow but deliberate movements, avoiding sudden or jerky actions
• avoiding direct and prolonged eye contact, which can be perceived as a threat by many dogs.

The following general low stress handling techniques should be applied in all situations when handling dogs.

• Use the minimal amount of equipment and restraint necessary to keep you and the dog safe.
• Continually adjust your hand and body position and restraint techniques to suit the dog’s needs in that moment.
• Talk quietly and avoid loud or sudden noises.
• Don’t make sudden movements.
• If possible, avoid letting the dog struggle repeatedly or for long periods. If the dog is struggling, ensure it is secure and can’t escape or fall and hurt itself, then give it some space and time to calm down.
• Most animals have an instinctive fear of falling. So, provide continual support for the dog and/or provide it with a non-slip surface, such as a pyramid matting, so it feels secure.
• Be efficient when handling the dog. Don’t rush, your sense of time pressure may transfer to the dog as stress. However, try to complete the bathing, drying and brushing smoothly and quickly.

Try to promote positive associations for the dog with the experience of being bathed, dried and brushed. Many dogs come to enjoy the process! Using verbal praise and affection helps to build these positive associations and will help you build a bond with the dog. Food treats may be appropriate to use as well, as long as you have the client’s permission and you follow the dog’s dietary requirements.

Special Handling Requirements

Low stress handling also requires you to consider if the dog has any special handling requirements. Dogs that typically require special handling include:

• Stressed and anxious dogs
• Puppies
• Seniors
• Dogs with restricted movement.

Stressed and anxious dogs

As previously stated, do not attempt to handle a dog at a red arousal level. Try to identify the cause of its stress and minimise or remove the trigger if possible. Then, leave the dog for up to 20-30 minutes to calm down. Conduct another distance assessment to see if it has returned to a calm but alert state. If not, leave it for another 20-30 minutes or until it is safe to handle them.

Stressed dogs that are at a yellow level of arousal may be handled if there is no way to remove the stressful stimulus. You may find positioning the grooming loop under one armpit will reduce the pressure on the neck and make it safer for the dog if you think it is likely to jump out of the bath or off the grooming table. If you are concerned that a grooming loop is not enough to secure the dog, using a belly band as well will provide additional restraint. Slings and muzzles may be appropriate for some dogs and some situations.

Always use low stress handling techniques. Be patient and try to stay calm. It can be frustrating trying to work with a stressed dog, but getting angry or forcing them to do what you need them to will only make the situation worse in that moment and for future grooming sessions.

Ideally, training a dog to be accustomed to and tolerant of grooming should start in the home with its owner. However, when working with a particularly anxious dog, you can do the following to help ease its stress levels.

The best way to work with stressed or anxious dogs is to build a positive bond with the dog and help them learn that they can trust you. While this can be difficult in a single session, repeatedly working with the same dog will help you establish and maintain a positive relationship with it. If possible, try to establish a positive relationship outside the grooming session, in the open environment.

Work with the client and ask them to bring the dog in for several short visits. The dog only needs to stay long enough to have a bit of a sniff around the salon before going home again. Once the dog remains calm during a short visit, build up to longer visits of approximately 30 minutes. The owner may choose to stay initially and assist, then leave the dog for gradually increasing periods of time.

When first acclimatising the dog to being handled by a groomer, first gently touch and handle the paws when the dog is calm and relaxed and away from the bathing or brushing areas. Start by resting your hand on the paw and giving praise if the dog allows it. Slowly increase the intensity of the interaction by stroking the top of the foot, working up to massaging and moving your fingers between the pads and toes. Never force it and immediately stop if the dog pulls away. However, offer praise if the dog tolerates you handling their paws.

Repeat the process with the other sensitive areas of the body, such as the ears, around the eyes and tail. The dog doesn’t have to love the bathing, drying and brushing processes, but should tolerate it. You will need to handle these areas to thoroughly wash and brush the dog.

Slowly build up to a bath, dry and brush appointment. Let the dog sniff each piece of equipment providing verbal praise for every positive interaction. Being even slightly familiar with the smell of the equipment will help the dog stay calm when you start using it on them.

Next, gently touch the dog with the equipment and build up to running the equipment over the dog as you would when actually grooming. Keep electrical appliances turned off and use the backs of brushes and combs during this desensitising stage.

Try to minimise the noise exposure for the dog. A bath or spa with the jets off may be a quieter option than a shower head for stressed dogs. Just don’t put the dog into the bath while the water is running. If you need to rinse with a shower head, run the water very slowly. The faster the water, the louder it tends to be. Offer praise as a distraction and to reward calm behaviour.

Many dogs find blow dryers very intimidating. However, to fully dry the coat, blow dryers may be unavoidable. In these instances, choose a quieter dryer and use the lowest setting possible. Allow the dog to sniff, interact and become familiar with the dryer before you turn it on. When you do turn it on, do so as far away from the dog as possible. If the dog remains calm, very slowly approach it with the dryer, offering praise as you get closer.

At any stage, if the dog becomes overtly stressed, back off and give it a chance to calm down. You don’t want to scare the dog or strengthen any negative associations it has with the process.

If you work with an extremely anxious dog that shows no signs of improving over a few sessions, you could consider suggesting the owner talk to their veterinarian about medication options (Pooches at Play 2023).

Puppies

Puppies are young, developing dogs that have not yet reached their full size. The age at which a puppy becomes an adult dog depends on the breed. However, Royal Canin (2018) suggested the following ages as an estimate:

• Extra-small breeds ( up to 4 kg): eight months
• Small breeds (5 - 10 kg): 10 months
• Medium breeds (11 – 25 kg): 12 months
• Large breeds (26 – 44 kg): 15 months
• Giant breeds (45 kg and over): 18 to 24 months.

Puppies are unlikely to be familiar with the processes of bathing, drying and brushing and need several visits before they become accustomed. They may be quite fearful of the noises, so it is important to be considerate and work as quietly as possible. For example, you may choose to use a cage dryer rather than an HV dryer until the puppy is confident around blow dryers.

Due to their inexperience, treat puppies in the same way you would a stressed dog. Gently introduce all the tools equipment and sensations of bathing, drying and brushing to a puppy before completing any tasks. Be considerate of their tolerance of the equipment and noise and stop as soon as they show signs of discomfort or distress. Use the lowest heat and speed settings on dryers. Allow the puppy to move and change positions freely, making sure to praise them when they are cooperative.

The focus is to ensure the puppy has a positive experience. Treats or lick mats may be helpful in establishing a positive association with grooming.

Many groomers suggest starting regular grooming visits as soon as the puppy has all its vaccinations.

Watch

The following video, How to Introduce Your Puppy to a Grooming Table and Force Dryer (3:00 min), demonstrates drying a puppy with an HV dryer and discusses ways to ensure it has a positive experience. Please note, that the first 20 seconds of the video, while the dryer is running, does not have any sound.

Seniors

Seniors are dogs in the last life stage. The senior life stage is typically the last quarter of the expected life span for the breed. Life spans vary greatly between different breeds. In general, smaller breeds tend to have a longer life span than those of larger breeds. However, there are many exceptions to the rule.

Vetwest Animal Hospitals (n.d.) suggests the following ages for the start of the senior life stage:

• Tiny (< 10 kg) dogs are considered seniors once over the age of 8
• Small (10-25 kg) dogs are considered seniors once over the age of 7
• Medium (25-40 kg) dogs are considered seniors once over the age of 6
• Large (> 40 kg) dogs are considered seniors once over the age of 5.

Senior dogs should be handled with care because they are less robust than their younger equivalents.

Senior dogs are more likely to suffer from a range of health issues, including arthritis and sight or hearing loss. If you know a particular dog has hearing or sight issues, approach them slowly and warn them of your approach. It is easy to inadvertently ‘creep’ up on them and give them a fright, which could result in them lashing out.

Arthritis causes painful inflammation of joints. When handling a dog with arthritis, ensure you fully support it so that there is no awkward twisting of or pressure on any of its joints.

Some extra things to consider on top of your low stress handling techniques when working with senior dogs include:

• Non-slip surfaces are very important for the less stable older dogs. Don’t rush them when changing their position or when moving them between the housing, bathing and brushing work areas. Check and trim the length of their nails and trim any long fur growing between their toes, which can make it more difficult to walk.
• Choose softer and gentler brushes for their more delicate skin, such as wooden pin brushes or silicon curry combs. Use gentler pressure when brushing, especially when using slicker brushes because the wires may catch on warts or other skin bumps and lumps that start to appear on a dog in its old age.
• Try to minimise the length of time you work with senior dogs, around 10 minutes at a time, or give them frequent breaks, particularly if they need to stand for long stretches. This is particularly important for dogs with arthritis. Standing for long periods puts a lot of stress on their joints.
• Focus on the sanitary areas more. Older dogs tend not to clean these areas themselves as well as their younger selves did.
• Check their skin carefully for any signs of new lumps, bumps, warts or other skin issues. Keep a record of these lumps for regular clients to help prevent accidental nicks and allow you to identify new issues that may need to be brought to a veterinarian’s attention (Chewy Editorial 2015).

Dogs with restricted movement

Some dogs have long-term injuries, such as a torn cruciate ligament, tracheal collapse or arthritis, which can be painful and take a very long time to recover from. The client should inform you of these types of injuries so that you can provide appropriate handling for the dog.

A torn cruciate ligament is a painful knee injury that is relatively common in dogs. When handling a dog with knee injuries, never grab or restrain it by putting pressure on the knee. Avoid dragging the dog, which could put pressure on the injured joint and cause pain. Belly bands can help support the dog in both the bath and on the grooming table.

The trachea, often referred to as the windpipe, is the tube that connects the mouth to the lungs. Tracheal collapse is a disease that causes the trachea to narrow and gets progressively worse over time. It causes chronic coughing and breathing difficulties (Cohen n.d.).

When working with dogs with tracheal collapse, be especially gentle when handling the throat and neck of the dog. Too much pressure will cause the dog to suffocate. Never use a slip lead or grooming loop around the neck. Instead, carry the dog (tracheal collapse is most common in Toy breeds), use a body harness or sling, place the grooming loop around the armpits rather than around the neck or use a belly band. Finally, give these dogs plenty of breaks.

Although more common in senior dogs, arthritis can affect all dogs of all ages. Handle these dogs carefully around their afflicted areas.

Continually Adjust Your Handling Techniques

Observe the dog closely while you work with it and pay attention to any changes in its emotional state or stress level. Be attentive and try to reduce arousal whenever possible to maintain a desirable state (green) rather than a stressed (yellow or red) state. If the dog becomes too agitated, it might be advisable to return it to its enclosure to allow it to calm down before continuing with the bathing, drying and brushing process.

Sometimes, however, it may be less stressful for the dog to complete the activity quickly rather than attempting to wash it multiple times. If you need to wash and brush an uncooperative dog, use additional equipment such as a sling or muzzle or seek assistance.

Washing a dog means applying water and cleaning products, such as shampoo, to the dog’s coat and skin to remove dirt and oils. Rinsing is the process of removing the cleaning products from the dog’s coat and skin with clean water.

Make sure to monitor the dog’s behaviour throughout the washing and rinsing processes. If the dog becomes distressed at any point, stop what you are doing. Assess the dog for health concerns and try to adjust your handling to better suit its needs. If needed, refer to the previous section about safe and low stress handling techniques to refresh your memory.

You may need to increase the use of restraint equipment or seek assistance if the dog becomes difficult to handle safely. Just remember that keeping yourself calm and confident will help the dog stay calm and confident.

However, if after all your attempts to calm it, the dog remains over-threshold and you are concerned for your safety or that of the dog, stop the task and call the owner to come pick up their dog. It’s important to know your own limits and safest not to push a dog past theirs.

The following are the key steps to wash and rinse the dog safely.

1. Move the dog to the washing area.
2. Check the water pressure and temperature.
3. Wet the dog and apply shampoo and any other products.
4. Rinse the dog.
5. Apply any post-bathing products.

Move the Dog to the Washing Area

Remove the dog’s collar if it is wearing one. Place the collar and any other personal items into a container labelled with the dog’s name, cage number, client’s name and any other relevant information.

In most instances, it is safest for you and the dog for the dog to walk to the bathing area. Place a slip lead over the head of the dog to secure it before you take it out of its enclosure. Using a slip lead prevents the dog from escaping and ensures it is always in your control.

You can then walk the dog to the bathing area. Many baths have ramps or can be lowered to allow the dog to walk independently into the bath without being lifted by you. Try to use these options where possible to reduce the strain on your back and muscles.

Once the dog is in the bath, you can remove the slip lead and replace it with a grooming loop or similar. It is important to secure the dog to the bath to prevent it from trying to climb out, which could be dangerous for both you and the dog.

Lifting and Carrying Dogs

You should only lift and carry a dog if there is no ramp into the bath, the dog has restricted mobility or is small enough to carry comfortably. Remember that a wriggly dog is much harder to carry than a static object of the same weight. So, to avoid manual handling injuries, always overestimate the dog’s weight and underestimate your carrying capacity. If you need to lift or carry a large or heavy dog, use appropriate equipment or ask for assistance from a second person.

Some baths are on adjustable electronic-lift legs, so you don’t need to bend over while washing the dog. If the bath doesn’t have a ramp, lower the bath as far as it will go to make it easier to lift the dog into it.

Watch

Review the following video, HOW TO Pick up and hold a dog (1:27 min), demonstrating the safest way to pick up and carry small, medium and large dogs.

When picking up and carrying smaller dogs, ensure you:

• pick them up by supporting the chest and body, rather than by lifting them up by their armpits
• support the front of the body by placing one hand between the front legs with one or two fingers supporting the chest
• support the back end of the body by scooping with the rump and back legs with your other hand and arm
• provide full body support and prevent wriggling by holding the dog close to your own body.

Regardless of the size of the dog you are carrying, make sure it feels safe by supporting the front and back ends of the dog, rather than letting part of it dangle uncomfortably. Always hold the dog close to your own body so you are in full control of its movement and can prevent excessive wriggling that may result in you dropping the dog.

Protect the Dog’s Ears

Most dogs find water in the ears uncomfortable and will shake their heads to clear it. Excess water in the ears can also lead to ear infections. So, before you wet the dog, gently place a cotton ball into each ear to help prevent water from entering the ear canal. Be very careful not to insert the cotton ball too far into the ear. You should be able to easily remove it again with just your fingers. To further prevent water from entering the ear canal, hold the ear flap down and don’t point the water stream directly at the ears.

Some dogs may have pre-existing ear issues. It is best to check the dog’s ears on arrival, while the client is present, so that both the client and the groomer are confident that the bathing process hasn’t caused an infection.

Check the Water Temperature and Pressure

For the dog's comfort and safety, you must check the water temperature and pressure before you wet the dog.

Water Temperature

Dogs have a normal body temperature of approximately 38.3-39.2°C. Heat stress occurs when a dog’s core temperature rises too high above normal. Heat stress can occur very quickly if a dog is bathed in water that is too warm, and it can be fatal. Puppies and small dogs are particularly susceptible to heat stress.

Hot water will scald (burn) the skin at temperatures above 50°C. The hotter the water, the faster it will scald and the higher the severity of the burn. For example, it only takes one second for water at 60°C to cause a third-degree burn, which completely destroys the skin and damages the underlying tissue (Better Health Channel 2019).

On the other hand, while cold water is not as harmful as hot water, it is very unpleasant for most dogs. So, it is vital that you check the water temperature before wetting the dog. The ideal temperature to wash a dog, whether partially submerged in a spa or sprayed with a shower head, is approximately 38°C. This will feel lukewarm to the touch.

You can use a water thermometer to measure the temperature. Some baths, such as hydrobaths and spas, may have a heating element with a thermostat. The thermostat turns off the heater once the water reaches the set temperature. You can use a thermometer to measure the temperature of the water to check the accuracy of the thermostat.

Some groomers prefer to lower the set temperature of the thermostat by a couple of degrees to make the bath more pleasant for dogs in hotter climates or seasonally.

Water Pressure

Water pressure is the speed at which the water hits the skin. You will need to adjust the water pressure according to the dog you are washing. Dogs with heavy undercoats will need a higher water pressure to penetrate the hair to the skin, while puppies or dogs with smooth coats or sensitive skin will need a much lighter pressure.

If the water pressure is too high, it will be uncomfortable for the dog. If the water pressure is too low, it will take longer to thoroughly wet the dog. You may also need to adjust the water pressure when spraying different parts of the dog. For example, you may need a higher pressure to wet the dog’s back but switch to light pressure when washing the belly and genital area.

To check the water pressure, simply hold your hand under the stream of water approximately 1 cm from the shower head, roughly the same distance you would hold it from the dog’s skin. If the pressure feels uncomfortable on your skin, it is probably too high for the dog.

Wet the Dog and Apply Shampoo

Once you are happy with the water temperature and pressure, thoroughly wet the dog’s coat and apply the shampoo. A thoroughly wet coat is one that is wet through to the skin. Dogs with long coats or thick undercoats will take longer to wet through compared to short-coated dogs.

General Washing Techniques

First, check that the shampoo is suitable for the dog’s coat and ski. For example, allergy-prone dogs will require medicated or sensitive skin shampoo.

Next, ensure the entire coat is wet because most shampoos work most effectively when mixed with water.

Start at the back of the neck and work your way down the dog to its tail making sure the water and product reach all the way to the skin. Always work the hair in one direction to avoid matting or clumping (NexGard n.d.).

It is important to always work the dog in the same direction – from head to tail. The sanitary region of the dog is most likely to be soiled. Saving that region to last ensures that you don’t contaminate the rest of the dog or any of your washing equipment, such as loofas. It is the most hygienic way to wash the dog.

How you wet the dog and apply the shampoo will depend on the bath type and products you use, as well as the dog’s coat type. For example, hydrobaths, hydrosurges and microbubble spas mix the shampoo with the water stream, so you wet the dog at the same time as applying the product. When using a grooming bath, you need to wet the dog before applying the shampoo. You will need to work both the water and the product through the coat by hand to ensure the dog is thoroughly wet and the shampoo is distributed evenly through the coat. You may choose to use a sponge, loofa or other items to create a rich lather and help you work the shampoo into the coat.

Avoid getting the product into the dog’s eyes. While most products are not harmful, it is uncomfortable for the dog.

If you are using medicated shampoos, it is particularly important to wear gloves and be especially careful to keep the product out of the dog’s eyes. Many medicated products are poisonous if ingested by humans or dogs or can cause chemical burns if not used according to the manufacturer’s directions. Make sure to read and follow the SDS instructions for use.

Even when using unmedicated products, it is best to wear gloves to reduce the likelihood of contact dermatitis, allergic reactions, dry skin and other skin issues developing as a result of frequent exposure.

Leave the shampoo in the coat for the tie specified by the manufacturer’s instructions – typically around 10 minutes – before rinsing it out.

Specific Washing Techniques

The following are some tips for washing dogs with particular coat types.

Washing Hairless dogs

Hairless dogs will only require a relatively quick spray to get them wet. Once they are wet, gently massage the shampoo into their skin. Make sure to use moisturising shampoo and conditioner for their typically sensitive and dry skin. Finally, give hairless dogs a thorough rinse to remove all products from their sensitive skin.

Washing Dogs with long or drop coats

When wetting and washing dogs with long or drop coats, always move the water and shampoo in the direction of the hair growth to avoid tangling. Make sure to part the hair and apply the water or product in sections to ensure you wet and wash right down to the skin.

Washing dogs with double or heavy coats

When washing dogs with double or heavy coats, ensure you brush the coat to remove mats and tangles before wetting them (Shannon 2023). Water and many products will make it harder to remove the tangles later and it can be very difficult to thoroughly rinse all the product out of large mats.

Washing the dog’s face

Washing the dog’s head requires care and attention. It is often easiest to wash it last, using a clean cloth.

Dip the cloth in soapy water then gently wipe the dog’s face, making sure to avoid the eyes, inner ears and nose. If the dog has any crusted eye discharge, use the wet cloth to soften it before using a soft toothbrush to gently brush away from the eye and remove the discharge.

Use a clean cloth and clean water to rinse all the product from the hair. You may need to repeat the process for particularly dirty dogs (Traverse 2023).

Rinse the Dog

Once you have worked the shampoo through the entire coat and allowed it time to work, you must rinse it out again. A thorough rinsing is important to remove all the product. Any residue left on the skin or hair can cause irritation and itchiness of the skin, skin conditions or trigger allergic reactions. Leftover products in the coat may also make it harder to brush.

Check the water temperature and pressure again before directing the water onto the dog. Use this as an opportunity to rinse your own hands and arms so you don’t accidentally drip product into the dog’s eyes. If the bathtub is particularly dirty after shampooing the dog, you may need to rinse the bath before rinsing the dog.

Use the same technique to rinse the dog as you used to thoroughly wet it – start at the neck and work your way down to the tail. If you use a bathing system that integrates the shampoo with the water, remember to switch to clean water for rinsing.

Apply Any Post-bathing Products

Apply the conditioner once you have rinsed all the shampoo out of the coat. Depending on the conditioner, leave for a few minutes then rinse the dog again or leave the product in the coat. Make sure to read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the conditioner you use.

If specified in your work instructions, apply post-bathing products. Again, follow the application directions on the product label. Additional bathing products may include a quick drying spray or 50/50 water and vinegar solution, which is a gentle treatment for mild skin infections and can help remove coat odours.

Watch

The following video, How to Give a Dog a Bath (Petco) (1:36 min), provides a basic demonstration of the key techniques involved in washing a dog.

Complete the following five (5) activities to check your knowledge and understanding of the key concepts of this topic. You may repeat this activity as often as you like. Use the arrows to move between the different activities.