Prepare the Animal For Health Care

Submitted by coleen.yan@edd… on Tue, 05/21/2024 - 13:19

Now that you, the work area and all required equipment are fully prepared, it is time to prepare the animal for its healthcare treatment.

The four key steps in preparing an animal for a healthcare procedure are as follows.

  1. Observe and interpret animal body language and behaviour.
  2. Confirm exactly what you need to do to approach, secure and handle the animal with your supervisor.
  3. Use low-stress techniques to approach and secure the animal.
  4. Assist with moving the animal to the inspection or treatment area.
Sub Topics
A close view of a dog displaying an uncertain demeanour

It is very important to observe an animal before you try to handle it. The animal’s behaviour – its movement and actions – will help determine the safest approach for handling and securing. Calm animals are easier and safer to handle than animals that are distressed, excited, anxious, afraid, aggressive or young and unfamiliar with handling.

Animal temperament and behaviour

An animal’s temperament is its individual “personality, makeup, disposition, or nature” (American Kennel Club n.d.). In other words, how an animal usually behaves is determined by its temperament. However, it is critical to remember that it is not unusual for animals with calm temperaments to become aggressive when they are in pain or frightened. Other animals may be completely calm outside a cage but become agitated and aggressive once placed inside a cage.

There will be many types of animals that you will work with over time, and behaviour and body language are typically different between different species as well as between different breeds or even different individuals. However, some behaviours and body language can be common across multiple animal species. The following table summarises some common animal behaviour and body language to look out for.

State Common body language and behaviours
Calm/relaxed Cats: Ears upright and forward, whiskers relaxed, eyes relaxed with slow blinking, slow flicking of tail, shows signs of curiosity and affection
Dogs: tail wagging, alert but relaxed ear posture, mouth relaxed or partially open, grooming
Rabbits: Looking around – shows signs of curiosity, grooming, relaxed whiskers
Birds: Looking around – shows signs of curiosity, normal vocalisation, grooming
Horses: Eyes, ears and nostrils relaxed, resting a hind leg, tail relaxed and gently swishing, head in line with withers (not raised) 
Fearful-aggressive Cats: Ears flattened, eyes taught (strained and tight), whiskers pulled back or straight out, flattened fur, hissing, biting, scratching
Dogs: Barking, growling, biting, lunging, scratching
Rabbits: Biting, thumping, trying to escape
Birds: Biting, lunging,
Horses: (Fearful) head high, wide eyes, ears moving, snorting through nostrils, tail clamped down, spins away from people or other animals
(Aggressive) ears back, whites of eyes showing, teeth bared, head up, tamping, kicking rearing, sweating
Anxious/Stressed Cats: Ears partially flattened, tail held tight against body, shifting head or body away from perceived threat 
Dogs: Hiding, jumping up on owner, trying to get away, whining and trembling
Rabbits: Freezing and hunching, ears flat against body, bulging eyes, easily startled
Birds: Flattened feathers, neck stretched out, wide eyes, flying, torpor (a state of shock)
Horses: Head high, widened nostrils, wide-open eyes, fast breathing, snorting through nostrils, fidgeting, pawing at the ground with front hoof, ears focused or twitching, sweating neck and flank

Whenever possible, temperament and typical behaviour should be noted on the animal’s computer file and on the animal’s cage or pen or noticeboard, especially when the animal is distressed, aggressive or in pain. “Fractious” is typically used to describe cats that are difficult to handle, while “aggressive” is used for dogs.

Tip

Here are some useful links to help you explore and understand animal behaviour. 

 

Below are some infograph posters that you may see at animal care clinics and shelters. 

 

Watch

 
Identifying when an animal is in pain

It is very common for animals to hide their pain. However, a change in the animal’s temperament or typical behaviours can often signal that the animal is injured or in pain. It is easiest to detect signs of pain when you are familiar with the animal’s typical temperament and behaviour.

However, common signs that an animal is in pain include the following: 

  • Decreased appetite 
  • Quiet, submissive behaviour 
  • Unusual posture or facial expressions 
  • Difficulty or reluctance to move, climb or jump 
  • Increased licking and biting of self in specific areas 
  • General neglect of coat care/grooming – dull, unkempt fur 
  • Hissing, growling, whining and whimpering (FOUR PAWS Australia 2020).

The following table summarises some common behaviours displayed by cats, dogs, rabbits and horses when they are in pain or discomfort:

Common behavioural indicators of pain in animals
Cats Dogs Rabbits Horses
  • Hiding 
  • Change in body posture, such as hunching
  • Difficulty, reluctance or refusal to use the kitty litter box (AZPetVet 2019)
  • Sudden aggression
  • Changes in sleep pattern
  • Restlessness
  • Vocalisation
  • Change in body posture such as hunching
  • Change in facial expression including ear position
  • Anorexia – refusing to eat
  • Abnormal gait or holding up a limb
  • Increased heart rate.
  • Sudden or increased aggression
  • Restlessness (AZPetVet 2019)
  • Attention-seeking behaviour
  • Guarding of site of pain
  • Licking area
  • Changes in sleep pattern
  • Vocalisation
  • Hiding
  • Change in body posture, such as hunching, weak tail wag or tucking of tail
  • Change in facial expression including ear position
  • Anorexia
  • Holding up a limb
  • Increased respiratory rate
  • Increased heart rate.
  • Reluctance for handling
  • Limping or abnormal gait or other movements
  • Sudden aggression
  • Hiding
  • Changes in sleep pattern
  • Restlessness
  • Vocalisation
  • Change in body posture, such as hunching or awkward positioning
  • Change in facial expression including ear position
  • Not toileting
  • Anorexia
  • Reduced drinking
  • Teeth grinding
  • Squinting.
  • Abnormal gait
  • Increased sweating
  • Lying down frequently (Oregon Veterinary Medical Association 2016)
  • Biting flanks
  • Kicking at stomach
  • Pawing at ground.

There are several tools for assessing pain levels in animals. The Glasgow Composite Measure Pain Scale (CMPS-SF) is a common decision-making tool for assessing pain in cats and dogs. The CMPS-SF lists around 30 visual descriptors of possible animal posture and behaviour. The descriptors are typically grouped into 6-8 categories, based on actions the observer needs to take before assessing the animal’s response, behaviour or condition. Within each category, the descriptors are ranked numerically according to their associated pain severity” (Reid 2021). The observer chooses the descriptor from each category that best fits the animal’s condition or behaviour. The scores of the selected descriptors are then added together to produce an overall pain score. The pain score is used to determine what pain treatment is required.

Compare the Animalcare Acute pain assessment scale for cats (pdf) with the Short Form of the Glasgow Composite Measure Pain Scale recommended for dogs by Royal Canin at the end of the ‘Pain assessment in the dog: the Glasgow Pain Scale’ article.

A frightened cat hiding under a couch
Risks associated with animal temperaments

The risks of the handler being bitten, scratched or kicked are associated with handling any animal in any situation. However, those risks tend to increase when the animal is in pain, stressed or anxious. The risks tend to be higher when the animal is fearful-aggressive.

The stress level of the animal also increases the risk of injury for the animal itself. The more stressed an animal is, the more likely the animal will injure itself by trying to get away or avoid being handled.

Here are some of the common risks associated with animal temperaments:

1. Aggression

  • Risk: Biting, scratching, kicking, charging, or other forms of physical aggression.
  • Cause: Animals may become aggressive when they feel threatened, are in pain, or are unfamiliar with their environment. Past negative experiences with humans or healthcare procedures may also trigger aggression.
  • Species Considerations:
    • Dogs may bite or snap when fearful or in pain.
    • Cats often scratch, bite, or lash out when stressed or cornered.
    • Horses can kick or rear up when feeling threatened or nervous.
    • Reptiles (e.g., snakes) may strike if they feel threatened or mishandled.
  • Mitigation: Use proper restraint techniques, understand warning signs (growling, raised hackles, bared teeth), and use protective equipment if needed.

2. Fearfulness and Anxiety

  • Risk: Panic-induced behaviours such as running away, jumping, or thrashing, which can lead to injury for the animal or handler.
  • Cause: Fear of new environments, loud noises, unfamiliar people, or past trauma. Animals in an unfamiliar setting, such as a veterinary clinic, often exhibit fear.
  • Species Considerations:
    • Dogs may cower, tremble, or try to escape. Some may become fear-aggressive.
    • Cats can hide, become immobile, or lash out unexpectedly.
    • Birds may become flighty, peck, or flutter, causing injury to themselves or others.
    • Livestock (e.g., sheep and goats) may bolt or panic, leading to trampling or injury.
  • Mitigation: Keep the environment calm and quiet, use calming techniques (pheromones, soft music), and avoid sudden movements.

3. Stress-Induced Reactions

  • Risk: Animals may become physically or mentally exhausted, exhibit abnormal behaviours, or develop stress-related health issues.
  • Cause: Prolonged exposure to stressful situations, such as prolonged restraint, unfamiliar procedures, or crowded environments, can overwhelm an animal.
  • Species Considerations:
    • Dogs may pace, excessively pant, or exhibit destructive behaviour.
    • Cats may excessively groom, develop alopecia (hair loss), or hide.
    • Birds can pluck their feathers or show signs of depression.
    • Reptiles may stop eating or exhibit erratic behaviour (e.g., constantly trying to escape).
  • Mitigation: Minimize stress by providing familiar objects, reducing exposure to stressful stimuli, and limiting the time animals spend restrained.

4. Dominance and Territorial Behavior

  • Risk: Displays of dominance may result in confrontations with handlers or other animals, leading to bites, kicks, or other aggressive responses.
  • Cause: Animals with strong territorial instincts or dominant temperaments may try to assert control over their space or resist handling.
  • Species Considerations:
    • Dogs with dominant temperaments may show protective behaviours over food, toys, or areas.
    • Cats can become territorial in multi-animal environments or around unfamiliar people.
    • Horses may exhibit dominant behaviours, like pinning their ears back or charging when feeling challenged.
    • Rabbits can bite or box with their front paws if they feel their space is being invaded.
  • Mitigation: Use clear, calm commands, avoid confrontational handling, and ensure animals are familiar with their space before interacting.

5. Unpredictable Reactions

  • Risk: Sudden changes in temperament or behaviour can lead to unexpected aggression or flight responses, posing a risk of injury.
  • Cause: Some animals may have highly variable temperaments due to past trauma, health issues, or unpredictable stress triggers.
  • Species Considerations:
    • Cats may switch from passive to aggressive if touched in sensitive areas or overstimulated.
    • Reptiles like snakes may seem calm but strike suddenly when approached too closely.
    • Livestock (e.g., cows, alpacas) can become startled by sudden noises or movements, causing erratic behaviour.
  • Mitigation: Be mindful of body language, approach animals calmly, and avoid overstimulation.

6. Pain-Related Aggression

  • Risk: Animals in pain are more likely to lash out when touched, restrained, or during the examination.
  • Cause: Injury, illness, or recovery from surgery can cause animals to react aggressively when their pain threshold is reached.
  • Species Considerations:
    • Dogs and cats may growl, bite, or pull away when an injured area is touched.
    • Horses may rear up, kick, or refuse to be handled.
    • Reptiles may withdraw or attempt to strike if they are experiencing physical discomfort.
  • Mitigation: Identify areas of pain before handling, use sedation or pain management as needed, and handle the animal gently.

7. Social Animals and Separation Anxiety

  • Risk: Social animals can become anxious or aggressive when separated from companions, leading to stress-related behaviours or destructive actions.
  • Cause: Animals that are used to living in groups or with bonded companions may struggle with separation.
  • Species Considerations:
    • Dogs may bark, whine, or chew on objects when left alone.
    • Birds can become noisy, destructive, or stop eating when separated from a flock or human companion.
    • Livestock may exhibit stress behaviours like pacing or refusing to eat if removed from the herd.
  • Mitigation: Use gradual separation techniques, provide enrichment, and offer familiar objects to ease anxiety.
Knowledge check 6

Case Study

Black and White Border Collie in the studio

At Happy Paws Animal Care, a multi-species boarding and care facility, the staff frequently encounter animals with diverse temperaments and behavioural needs. Understanding an animal's temperament and behaviour, recognizing signs of pain, and managing associated risks are critical for ensuring both the animal's well-being and the safety of the staff.

Animal Profile: Bella, a 5-year-old Border Collie

Temperament and Behaviour: Bella is known to be a generally friendly dog, though she displays strong protective instincts, particularly around unfamiliar people and animals. During previous boarding stays, she has shown signs of mild separation anxiety when left alone but quickly settles down with familiar caregivers. She is highly intelligent and energetic and requires mental stimulation, often becoming restless or irritable if not given enough attention or exercise.

 

Incident: On a recent visit, Bella was brought in for a routine veterinary check-up and boarding. The staff at Happy Paws noticed that Bella was more agitated than usual. She growled softly when one of the staff members attempted to leash her for a walk, which was uncharacteristic of her normally playful behaviour.

1. Animal Temperament and Behaviour

In assessing Bella's temperament, the staff took note of her:

  • Protective Nature: Bella’s protectiveness could lead to growling or defensive postures around unfamiliar staff members.
  • Restlessness: Bella was pacing more than usual in her kennel, which was a deviation from her typical behaviour.
  • Anxiety: She displayed some anxious behaviours, including whining and refusing to settle despite the presence of familiar caregivers. This could be attributed to her separation from her owners or an underlying issue.

2. Identifying When an Animal is in Pain

The caregivers were trained to recognise the subtle signs of pain in animals, which can often manifest as changes in behaviour. In Bella's case, the following indicators were observed:

  • Increased Aggression: Bella growled and stiffened when the staff attempted to put on her leash, which was unusual given her past behaviour.
  • Reduced Mobility: While walking, Bella limped slightly on her right hind leg, avoiding putting full weight on it.
  • Licking at the Affected Area: Bella frequently licked her hind leg, which can be a sign of pain or discomfort.

These behaviours suggested that Bella was likely in pain despite her initially energetic disposition.

3. Risks Associated with Animal Temperament

The staff at Happy Paws recognized that Bella’s protective nature and current pain levels posed certain risks. These risks included:

  • Aggressive Behaviour: Bella's growling indicated that she might become aggressive if provoked further. As a normally protective dog, her pain could heighten her defensiveness, increasing the risk of biting or snapping at staff.
  • Escalation of Anxiety: Bella’s anxious pacing and whining were signs of growing stress. If not properly managed, anxiety could escalate, leading to further aggressive behaviours or even self-harm (excessive licking or chewing at the painful area).
  • Injury to Staff or Animal: Without recognizing the pain, staff members might have attempted to restrain Bella, potentially causing her more discomfort or triggering an aggressive response that could result in injury to themselves or Bella.

Action Plan and Mitigation

Step 1: Assessing the Cause of Pain To mitigate the risks, the staff immediately contacted the on-site veterinarian to assess Bella’s condition. Upon examination, it was discovered that Bella had a minor strain in her hind leg, likely from overexertion during a previous walk. This explained her sudden change in temperament.
Step 2: Pain Management and Handling The veterinarian prescribed an anti-inflammatory medication to relieve Bella’s discomfort. The caregivers were instructed to limit her physical activity for a few days. They also adjusted their handling techniques to be more cautious and gentle, avoiding unnecessary stress or physical contact with her sore leg.
Step 3: Addressing Anxiety The staff used familiar commands and comforting techniques to help calm Bella. They also provided mental enrichment activities (like food puzzles) to keep her engaged without exacerbating her physical injury. A pheromone diffuser was placed in her kennel to reduce her anxiety.
Step 4: Monitoring Behaviour The staff continued to monitor Bella for any signs of escalating aggression or further changes in behaviour. Her pain levels gradually improved, and she returned to her normal, playful self once the strain healed.


This case study demonstrates the importance of recognizing and managing the impact of an animal’s temperament, behaviour, and pain on their overall well-being. Bella’s protective nature, combined with her pain, posed several risks to both herself and the staff. However, by carefully identifying the signs of pain and adjusting their approach, the caregivers at Happy Paws were able to mitigate these risks and ensure a positive outcome for Bella

Now that we have explored what animal behaviour is and what it looks like let's explore some scenarios of animals exhibiting a type of behaviour, identifying it correctly, and identifying potential risks to both the animal and the handler/ human. 

Scenario

Animal Temperament

Risk to Animal

Risk to Handler and others (Human)

Handling an anxious dog in a noisy shelter Anxious Self-injury from panic or escape attempts Risk of bites or scratches due to fear-aggression
Leading a high-spirited horse during grooming High-spirited Risk of injury from sudden movements or rearing Risk of being kicked or stepped on during handling
Introducing a territorial cat to a new enclosure Territorial Increased stress and aggression Risk of scratches and bites due to defensive behaviour
Performing a health check on a docile rabbit Docile Low, but can injure itself if startled Minimal risk; could scratch or nip if mishandled
Approaching a protective mother goat with kids Protective Potential harm if stressed Risk of head-butting or kicking, especially around young
Handling a defensive snake for an enclosure move Defensive Potential self-injury from striking Risk of bites, especially from venomous species
Bathing an excitable dog after a walk Excitable Low risk, but may slip or injure in bath Risk of accidental scratches or bites if dog jumps or slips
Restraining a shy bird for a medical exam Shy High stress, potential injury from flailing Risk of scratches or pecks as the bird tries to escape
Herding cautious cattle for transport Cautious Risk of stampede or trampling due to fear Risk of being trampled if cattle feel cornered or pressured
Administering medication to a stubborn pig Stubborn Risk of injury if it resists forcefully Risk of bites or head-butting if pig becomes frustrated
Capturing a horse  Fearful- Aggressive  Risk of Injury and distress, stomping injury Risk of being stomped, pushed, ran over
A cat laying in its bed  Calm  Falling out of its bed, being frightened  Risk of being scratched

 

A person holding a blue-tongued lizard

Depending on the animal’s species, body language and temperament, you or your supervisor will decide on the most appropriate method to approach, secure (capture and contain) and handle the animal. If you feel unable to interact with an animal appropriately and safely, ask your supervisor for help. Remember to use active listening and questioning skills to work out and confirm exactly what you need to do.

Approach the animal safely

Woman farmworker approaching a calf to feed it in the field

To approach an animal means to move towards it. In general, you should always approach an animal with caution. Remember that even well-socialised, calm and confident animals may react unexpectedly to an unfamiliar person, in unfamiliar surroundings or if they are injured or unwell. Wildlife will instinctively be afraid of people and being handled.

Before you approach the animal, do a distance assessment. Look at the animal’s body language and behaviour and look for any notes on the cage card that will provide you with specific information about the animal you are about to handle.

Regardless of the species or individual traits of the animal you are working with, the following approach techniques are advised to alert the animal to your presence and to avoid startling them:

  • Approach slowly
  • Avoid getting into the animal’s blind spots
  • Talk softly and avoid sudden or loud sounds
  • Avoid sudden movements (Kramer 2019).

 

Let us go through some quick steps you can take when approaching an animal that ensure you do it the best way possible for you and the animal. 

1. Assess the Animal's Behaviour and Body Language

Before approaching any animal, it’s important to assess their mood and body language from a safe distance. Look for the following cues:

  • Relaxed animals may have a loose posture, open facial expressions, and normal breathing.
  • Nervous or fearful animals may cower, shake, have their ears pinned back, or avoid eye contact.
  • Aggressive animals may show signs such as growling, hissing, baring teeth, raised fur, or a rigid stance.
  • Pain indicators include limping, whining, excessive licking, or a reluctance to move.

Knowing how the animal is feeling can help you adjust your approach accordingly.

2. Move Calmly and Confidently

  • Avoid Sudden Movements: Approach slowly and calmly. Quick movements can startle the animal and provoke a defensive response.
  • Lower Your Body: Crouching or kneeling at the animal’s level, especially with smaller animals, can make you seem less threatening.
  • Avoid Direct Eye Contact: In some species, direct eye contact can be perceived as a challenge or threat. Instead, glance at the animal and then look away.
  • Keep Your Hands Visible: Avoid moving your hands too quickly or making sudden gestures, which can provoke fear or aggression.

3. Allow the Animal to Come to You (if possible)

Whenever it’s safe to do so, allow the animal to approach you rather than reaching out to them. This helps them feel more in control and reduces the risk of a negative reaction.

  • Extend a Hand for Sniffing (Dogs/Cats): Allow the animal to sniff your hand before attempting to touch them. This gives them a chance to get familiar with your scent.
  • Use Treats as a Positive Incentive: Offering a treat (if permitted and appropriate for the animal’s diet) can create positive reinforcement and help build trust.

4. Approach from the Side or Front, Not from Behind

Approaching from behind can startle an animal, as they may not be aware of your presence. Instead:

  • Dogs and Cats: Approach from the side or front where the animal can clearly see you. Avoid standing over them, as this can be intimidating.
  • Horses and Livestock: Always approach from the side, ensuring to stay in the animal’s field of vision. With horses, avoid standing directly behind them to reduce the risk of being kicked.
  • Reptiles and Birds: Gently approach from the front where the animal can see you and move slowly to avoid startling them.

5. Speak Softly and Reassure the Animal

Animals often respond to the tone of your voice. Speaking in a calm, soothing voice can help reassure a nervous animal.

  • Avoid Loud Noises: Loud, sharp noises can startle animals, so keep your voice soft and your movements quiet.
  • Use the Animal's Name (if known): Using their name can help familiar animals feel more comfortable.

6. Use Proper Restraint Techniques

When necessary, use species-specific restraint techniques to prevent the animal from injuring themselves or others. It’s important that restraint is secure but gentle to avoid causing distress or harm:

  • Dogs: Use a leash or harness. For nervous or aggressive dogs, consider using a muzzle if appropriate.
  • Cats: Use a towel or blanket to gently wrap the cat, which can prevent scratching and calm the animal.
  • Horses/Livestock: Use halters and lead ropes and avoid standing directly in their kicking range.
  • Reptiles: Handle them calmly and securely, using appropriate equipment such as snake hooks or gloves.

7. Be Aware of Signs of Escalating Behaviour

Watch for signs that the animal is becoming increasingly anxious or aggressive:

  • Growling, Hissing, or Ears Flattened: For dogs and cats, these are signs of fear or aggression.
  • Sudden Freezing or Staring: These are warning signs that the animal may be preparing to act aggressively.
  • Tail Position: A raised, stiff dog tail or a puffed-up tail in cats can indicate tension or aggression.

If these signs appear, stop and reassess the situation. It may be necessary to back away slowly and give the animal space to calm down before attempting another approach.

8. Safety Equipment

Use appropriate safety equipment when handling animals known for aggressive tendencies or when the situation requires it:

  • Gloves: Thick gloves for handling aggressive animals or reptiles that may bite.
  • Muzzles: For dogs that may bite, especially during medical procedures.
  • Towels/Blankets: To safely contain small animals or cats.
  • Barriers/Tools: For more dangerous animals (like aggressive reptiles or large animals), using barriers such as snake hooks, leashes, or secure containment is essential.

9. Seek Assistance if Necessary

If the animal shows extreme signs of aggression or fear, do not attempt to approach it alone. Seek assistance from a colleague or a veterinarian to help manage the situation safely.

 

 

Secure the animal safely

transportation of pets. Girl and dog. Dog carriers for air travel. sat waiting for the plane. Moving with animals. live luggage at the airport. Safe travel with animals by plane or train.

To secure an animal means to capture and contain it. For small animals, such as rabbits and lizards, securing may simply mean picking them up. For larger animals, such as horses, securing may require attaching a lead rope or other equipment that allows you to control the animal’s movement.

Common methods of capture

The method of capture that you use will depend on the animal species, taking its temperament and demeanour into account. For example, you may be able to simply pick up a calm rabbit out of its cage, while it may take two or three people to secure an agitated cow.

All animals must be captured according to WHS procedures and safety guidelines. This will ensure the safety of the animal as well as the staff members involved in the capture. The method and equipment you choose to use to capture the animal will depend on your distance assessment, which you should have done before you approached the animal.

The following are some common pieces of equipment used in capturing most species of animal:

  • Your hands
  • Collar
  • Leash, slip-lead or harness
  • Towel, pillowcase, sheet, tea towel, blanket or clothing
  • EZ-nabber or catch net
  • Hessian or calico bag
  • Plastic container, bucket, or clean ice cream container for aquatic animals
  • Gloves
  • Cage or cat trap
  • Halter and/or length of rope for a horse or livestock.

As with approaching an animal, your behaviour should aim to reduce the risk of startling the animal and help them feel less threatened.

  • Move slowly, but with purpose.
  • Avoid eye contact and avoid touching the animal’s face.
  • Don’t move in behind or crowd the animal.
  • Concentrate fully on the animal you are securing without being distracted by other activities.
  • Always be prepared to protect yourself or move away quickly if an animal unexpectedly becomes aggressive.

The specific equipment and techniques you use to secure an animal will depend on the animal, its demeanour and condition. However, the following are examples of the safest and most humane way to capture a:

  1. Nervous dog
  2. Bird
  3. Rabbit
  4. Cat.
Capturing a nervous dog

Keeping calm and confident when handling any animal is important because any hesitation on your part can increase their anxiety. So, when capturing a nervous dog:

  1. Approach confidently, use the dog’s name, and have a slip lead ready before opening the cage door.
  2. Ask the dog to sit (if possible) then open the cage door slightly.
  3. Put your hand with the lead through the door and secure it around the neck.
  4. Open the door fully and lead the dog out.

Don’t get into the cage and shut the door behind you if the dog is nervous or fearful. Always approach the dog from the side and keep your eye on the dog’s body language to anticipate any sudden movements or aggression. Remove yourself from the area if you are worried and ask for assistance.

The following image shows a slip lead around a relaxed dog.

A dog wearing a slip collar
Capturing birds
A close view of a vet holding a small bird

Birds have hollow bones and so are often much lighter than you think they are. Be firm but gentle when capturing birds. It is important to note that birds are very easily stressed and quickly go into a state of stress-torpor – a state of lowered consciousness. So be calm and confident, and work efficiently to minimise your contact with them.

  1. Make sure you are in a room with all the doors and windows closed.
  2. Use a small, thin towel or another piece of material to capture the bird. Thick gloves are not recommended because they make it difficult for you to tell how much pressure you are using, which means you could inadvertently injure the bird.
  3. Put your hand in the cage door and use the towel to capture the bird. Try to do this in one swift motion so you don’t have to chase the bird around the cage, causing it additional stress. Aim to grab the whole body, not just the tail or a wing or a leg, which will stress the bird and likely cause injury (Douglas et al. 2022, pp. 329-330).
  4. Do not hold the bird too tightly. Birds breathe with their whole body, so the more tightly you hold them, the more stressed they will become.
Swiftly snatch a bird, using a motion that ensnares or surrounds the animal, avoiding pinning or crushing it.
(Douglas et al., 2022 p. 329)
Capturing a rabbit

It is important always to support the back when securing or carrying a rabbit. If they twist or kick out, they can seriously injure their spine.

To pick up a rabbit safely:

  1. Tuck the rabbit’s head under your elbow and put the hand of that same arm under the rabbit’s stomach.
  2. With your other hand, scoop the rabbit’s backside up as you lift the animal off the table.
  3. Hold the rabbit firmly to prevent them from squirming, twisting or kicking.

Capturing a cat

Conduct a distance assessment before you approach a cat. If the cat is in a carrier, if possible, take off the top half of the carrier rather than trying to pull the cat out through the door. The doors are small and awkward and force you to put your hand towards the cat’s face, which can be very threatening.

If you can access the cat from above:

  1. Place one hand under the chest and one under the stomach and lift the cat up.
  2. Tuck the cat’s bottom under your arm and hold them close to your body.
  3. Use your other arm to support the body and make the cat feel secure.

Working with others to secure an animal

The minimum number of staff should be involved when securing an animal. Fewer people will reduce the amount of stress the animal experiences and will reduce complications that may result in harm to the animal or an unsuccessful capture.

However, when more than one person is required to secure an animal safely, it is vital that you are fully aware of and understand your role in the process. You must work calmly and efficiently with the other person to ensure low-stress and humane animal capture.

To coordinate your actions with those of other staff members, make sure you listen actively to instructions and ask questions to clarify and confirm your role in the process. Clear communication and understanding are critical for your safety as well as that of the other staff members and the animal.

The staff members involved with the capture must be qualified animal carers, veterinary nurses, veterinarians or other senior qualified animal carers within your facility.

All junior staff, non-qualified staff and clients should not assist with capturing any animal, especially highly aggressive animals. The risk of injury to the animal, you, other staff members and the clients is too great.

Highly aggressive animals should only be captured by a qualified staff member.

Mechanical and chemical restraints, such as muzzles and sedatives, may be needed for your safety.

If you notice that an animal has escaped, you must capture it safely before the animal, other animals in the facility or someone else becomes injured. If you cannot capture the animal, call for someone to help you, but do not leave the animal unsupervised.

If you have an injury yourself (back, neck, cut to hand, etc.), you will not be permitted to restrain or capture any animal that places you at risk and that is outside your ‘return to work plan’.

Watch

The following video, ‘Health checks in the wild for bushfire affected koalas’ (3:41 min), provides a brief demonstration of how wild koalas are captured using a flag and hessian bag and then restrained in the bag while they are given a basic health check. Consider the ways in which animal ethics and the principles of animal welfare are upheld by the arborists (tree-climbers) and vets shown in this video.

Handle the animal safely

A person taking a guinea pig out of a cage

Handling an animal includes picking it up, transporting it safely, positioning it for examination as well performing the examination itself. You will often be required to help move an animal into the inspection or treatment area. The method you use to transport the animal will depend on the species and its temperament and demeanour.

Extremely uncooperative, aggressive or dangerous animals may need to be sedated before transport.

You can assist in moving an animal into the examination room by:

  • accompanying a client walking their animal into the room
  • leading the animal into the room on a lead, leash or rope
  • carrying the animal using a stretcher, blanket or towel
  • placing the animal on a table and wheeling it into the room
  • carrying the animal in a box or carrier
  • carrying the animal in your arms.

Care must be taken while moving the animal so that neither you nor the animal are injured in the process. Always ensure you move them safely and with care.

As with approaching and securing the animal, the techniques you use to handle and transport the animal will depend on the species, its temperament and welfare needs.

Handling techniques for different species

It is often easiest to transport small animals in a carrier to reduce their risk of escaping. Cat carriers are ideal for transporting most animal species that are the size of a cat or smaller, as long as the animal can’t fit its head between the bars of the cage.

Covering the carrier can also help reduce stress for prey animals, such as small birds, rabbits or guinea pigs.

Regardless of the species, ten principles of low stress handling you should consider are:

  1. Make the environment as calm and comfortable as possible.
  2. Try to keep the animal from pacing, squirming or making sudden movements.
  3. Position your hands, arms and body to properly support the animal so that it doesn’t feel like it is off balance or will fall.
  4. Position your hands, arms and body to control the animal’s movement in any direction.
  5. Remember, animals that are nervous, scared or in pain are less likely to cooperate with trained behaviours and more likely to resist handling.
  6. If possible, wait until the animal is calm and relaxed before starting an examination or treatment.
  7. Use the minimum restraint possible, including involving as few people as possible.
  8. Try to avoid prolonged (more than 2 seconds) or repeated fighting or struggling.
  9. Use rewards and distractions if appropriate or when necessary.
  10. Be sensitive to the animal’s response to restraint and continually adjust your positioning and technique to best suit the animal in that moment (Willink 2016).

Watch the following video, ‘6. Best practice sheep handling’ (7:22 min), which takes the natural instincts and behaviours of sheep into consideration when handling them. The video also demonstrates the importance of working together with other staff to efficiently and humanely handle sheep in a manner that is safe for both the staff and the animals involved.

 

Taking welfare needs into consideration

Before you handle or transport an animal, you should have already confirmed the health task required and any welfare needs of the particular animal. These may alter the way in which you handle the animal. For example, if the animal is suspected of having a spinal injury, then you should transport it on a flat surface, such as a spinal board. If an animal has a preferred method of being held (or one they particularly hate) this may be noted on the cage card or be mentioned by the owner.

Knowledge Check 7

Case Study

Procedure Guide: Approaching, Securing, and Handling Animals at Happy Paws Animal Care


This guide provides the appropriate procedures for safely approaching, securing, and handling animals at Happy Paws Animal Care. These procedures ensure the safety and well-being of both the animals and the staff.

1. Dogs

Approaching:

  • Assess behaviour: Look for signs of fear or aggression (e.g., growling, stiff body, tucked tail). Approach only if the dog is calm or appears approachable.
  • Approach calmly and confidently: Move slowly from the side, crouch slightly, and avoid direct eye contact.
  • Let the dog approach you first: If possible, extend your hand for the dog to sniff before proceeding.

Securing:

  • Use a leash or harness: Slip a leash over the dog’s head or clip it onto the harness or collar.
  • Muzzle if necessary: If the dog shows signs of aggression, use a muzzle to prevent bites.

Handling:

  • Restrain gently: Use minimal force. Keep the dog close to your body, controlling the head and keeping your hands away from the mouth.
  • Supportive handling for vet visits or procedures: Secure the dog in a sitting or standing position with gentle pressure applied behind the front legs or under the abdomen if needed.

2. Cats

Approaching:

  • Observe behaviour: Signs of fear include hissing, flattened ears, and dilated pupils. Approach only when the cat appears relaxed or non-aggressive.
  • Move slowly and stay low: Approach from the side, offering a hand for the cat to sniff.
  • Avoid sudden movements or loud noises: These may trigger defensive actions like swiping or fleeing.

Securing:

  • Use a towel or blanket: Gently drape a towel over the cat to wrap them and limit movement, especially for scared or aggressive cats.
  • Scruffing (if necessary): Gently hold the loose skin at the back of the neck (only for short-term restraint and not with heavy force).

Handling:

  • Minimal restraint: Handle the cat gently but securely, supporting the body with one hand under the chest and the other under the hindquarters.
  • Avoid overstimulation: Handle the cat for as little time as possible to prevent stress or agitation.

3. Birds

Approaching:

  • Observe behaviour: Look for signs of stress (fluffed feathers, panting, wide eyes). Calm birds will typically be quiet and still.
  • Approach from the front: Birds need to see you coming. Speak softly and move slowly.
  • Offer a perch or hand (for trained birds): Allow the bird to step up voluntarily.

Securing:

  • Use a towel or cloth for untrained birds: Gently cover the bird’s body to prevent flapping, ensuring you do not restrict breathing.
  • Hold wings and legs securely but gently: Keep the bird’s wings close to its body while ensuring the head and feet are supported.

Handling:

  • Hold firmly but avoid squeezing: Birds have delicate respiratory systems, so be mindful not to compress the chest.
  • Avoid prolonged restraint: Handle birds only when necessary, releasing them into a safe cage or enclosure afterwards.

4. Snakes

Approaching:

  • Observe from a safe distance: Look for signs of defensive behaviour such as coiling, hissing, or striking.
  • Approach from behind: Use slow, steady movements to reduce stress.

Securing:

  • Use a snake hook or gloves for large or venomous snakes: This ensures safe handling without direct contact.
  • Hold behind the head: Secure the snake’s head gently but firmly to control movement.

Handling:

  • Support the entire body: Allow the snake’s body to rest on your arm while supporting its head. Never dangle the snake from just one point.
  • Avoid unnecessary restraint: Handle only when needed and place back into a secure enclosure promptly.

5. Horses

Approaching:

  • Approach from the side: Ensure the horse can see you and avoid approaching from directly behind to prevent startling.
  • Speak softly and extend a hand: Allow the horse to smell your hand to become familiar with you.

Securing:

  • Use a halter and lead rope: Approach from the side and gently place the halter over the horse’s nose, securing it behind the ears.
  • Avoid standing directly in front: Stand to the side of the horse’s head when securing the halter.

Handling:

  • Lead with confidence: Hold the lead rope with a gentle grip, maintaining a safe distance from the horse’s legs.
  • Watch for signs of distress: If the horse pins its ears back or swishes its tail aggressively, back away and allow the horse time to calm.

6. Sheep

Approaching:

  • Approach calmly: Sheep are prey animals and can become easily spooked. Move slowly and avoid loud noises.
  • Approach from the side: This allows the sheep to see you without feeling threatened.

Securing:

  • Use a catch pen or small enclosure: This reduces stress and allows easier handling.
  • Hold under the chin and behind the ears: This keeps the sheep's head steady while providing control.

Handling:

  • Avoid grabbing wool: This can cause discomfort. Use the sheep’s body for control, supporting the chest and hindquarters when lifting.
  • Restrain by “tipping” for exams: Sit the sheep back on its rump for procedures like shearing or hoof trimming.

7. Cows

Approaching:

  • Stay calm and quiet: Cows are generally docile but can become defensive if they feel threatened.
  • Approach from the side: Always ensure the cow can see you and avoid startling movements.

Securing:

  • Use a halter or headgate for restraint: Lead the cow using a halter or safely secure it in a headgate for more detailed procedures.
  • Avoid standing directly behind: Keep a safe distance from the cow’s hind legs to avoid kicking.

Handling:

  • Firm but gentle handling: Cows respond well to calm, confident handling. Do not pull or tug abruptly.
  • Lead with a halter: Hold the halter firmly and walk alongside the cow rather than pulling from the front.

8. Lizards

Approaching:

  • Move slowly and observe behaviour: Lizards can become easily stressed, so slow, deliberate movements are key.
  • Approach from the side or front: Make sure the lizard can see you coming to reduce startle responses.

Securing:

  • Support the body fully: Gently lift the lizard, supporting both the chest and tail. Avoid gripping too tightly.
  • Use gloves (for large or aggressive lizards): If handling a large or unfamiliar lizard, wear gloves for protection.

Handling:

  • Avoid stress: Limit handling time to reduce stress. Keep the lizard close to your body to provide warmth and security.
  • Hold firmly but gently: Ensure the lizard feels secure without causing distress or squeezing.

9. Rabbits

Approaching:

  • Speak softly and move slowly: Rabbits are prey animals and may become frightened easily. Let them sniff your hand before attempting to pick them up.
  • Approach from the side: Make sure the rabbit can see you and avoid startling it.

Securing:

  • Support the entire body: Lift the rabbit gently, placing one hand under the chest and the other supporting the hindquarters.
  • Use a towel or carrier for transport: If the rabbit is particularly skittish, secure it in a towel or use a carrier.

Handling:

  • Hold close to your body: Rabbits feel secure when held firmly against your chest, with their legs supported.
  • Avoid restraining too tightly: Overly tight restraint can cause stress or injury. Handle gently but confidently.
A person restrains a cat while a vet administers ear drops

Even the most compliant animal is unlikely to sit or stand still during its healthcare treatment. For their safety and the safety of the person giving the treatment, all animals need to be restrained in some way to restrict their movement. However, it is important to remember that restraint does not necessarily mean completely immobilising the animal. Excessive restraint can cause stress in many animals.

Appropriate restraint is all about empathy, finesse, and technique – it has little to do with strength.
(Veterinary Medical Center of Long Island n.d.)

As with approaching, securing and transporting an animal, the level of restraint needed and the techniques you use will depend on the animal species, taking its temperament, demeanour, and welfare needs into account.

You should also consider the age of the animal. Older animals may have other conditions, such as deafness, blindness or arthritis, that you should consider before handling or restraining them. Pregnant animals may need to be handled differently to avoid causing the animal additional discomfort. Use minimal force with young animals, such as puppies and kittens, to reduce the risk of causing negative associations with handling that may make the animal difficult to work with in the future.

General Guidelines for Restraining Animals

  • Safety First: Always prioritize your safety and the animal’s well-being. Never attempt to restrain an animal beyond your capabilities. Seek assistance if necessary.
  • Use the Least Restraint Necessary: Overly tight or excessive restraint can cause stress, injury, or provoke aggressive behaviour.
  • Be Calm and Confident: Animals can sense nervousness. Calm movements and a confident approach can help reassure them.
  • Know When to Stop: If an animal shows extreme stress or aggression, it may be necessary to pause and allow time for them to calm down before attempting restraint again.

 

Restraint Tools

  • Leashes and Harnesses: Essential for controlling dogs or small mammals like ferrets and rabbits.
  • Muzzles: Useful for dogs or other animals that may bite during restraint.
  • Towels/Blankets: Versatile tools for wrapping small animals like cats, birds, or rabbits.
  • Halters and Lead Ropes: For controlling large animals like horses, cows, and sheep.
  • Snake Hooks and Gloves: Used for safely restraining snakes and other reptiles.

Low-stress methods for safe restraint

A horse with the trainer in a stable

There are several ways to restrain animals safely. Your supervisor will help you choose the appropriate one for the animal you are working with.

The following list of general methods of restraint is ordered from the lowest to highest levels of restraint. In all situations, use the lowest level of restraint possible by:

  • Using light hand pressure
  • Using a collar, halter or lead to keep the animal still
  • Holding the animal against your body and ensuring control over the animal's head and limbs
  • Confining the animal using a towel or other cloth
  • Using fitted restraints.

 

Examples of Low Restrainint techniques on specific animals include: 

1. Dogs

Low-Stress Techniques:

  • Positive Reinforcement: Use treats and calming words to reward the dog for calm behaviour, making the restraint experience more positive.
  • Distraction Techniques: Offering a chew toy or treat during restraint can divert the dog’s attention from the procedure.
  • Gentle Leashing: Use a soft leash and avoid pulling or jerking. Slowly place the leash while allowing the dog to sniff and investigate.
  • Comfort Hold: Instead of forceful restraint, use a gentle but secure hold around the neck and chest, keeping the dog close to your body to provide a sense of security.

Special Considerations:

  • For dogs prone to anxiety, give them time to adjust by introducing the restraint equipment (leashes, harnesses, etc.) in a relaxed, non-threatening way.

2. Cats

Low-Stress Techniques:

  • Feliway or Pheromone Sprays: Use calming pheromone sprays in the environment or on blankets/towels to help reduce stress.
  • Towel Wrap (“Burrito Method”): Gently wrap the cat in a towel, leaving only the head exposed. This provides security and limits movement without using force.
  • Quiet Handling: Work in a calm environment, speaking softly and handling the cat as little as possible.
  • Minimal Restraint: Support the cat’s body with your hands, allowing it to stand or sit on a stable surface without applying too much pressure.

Special Considerations:

  • Avoid direct eye contact, as this can be seen as a threat. Allow the cat to approach you or come out of its carrier at its own pace.

3. Birds

Low-Stress Techniques:

  • Positive Interaction First: Gently talk to the bird and allow it to perch on your hand if it’s comfortable. Avoid forceful grabs.
  • Towel Restraint: Use a soft towel to wrap the bird, ensuring that it remains calm while preventing excessive flapping. Avoid restricting the chest area to allow proper breathing.
  • Limit Handling Time: Handle the bird only for as long as necessary. Return it to its cage or a familiar perch as soon as possible to reduce stress.
  • Gradual Approach: Move slowly and deliberately, allowing the bird to get used to your presence before attempting restraint.

Special Considerations:

  • Some birds respond well to being placed in a dimly lit environment during handling, which can have a calming effect.

4. Snakes

Low-Stress Techniques:

  • Slow Movements: Approach the snake slowly to avoid triggering a defensive response. Sudden movements may cause the snake to coil or strike.
  • Support the Body: Gently lift the snake with one hand under its head and the other supporting the rest of its body. Allow the snake to rest its body on your arms, avoiding unnecessary gripping.
  • Use Snake Hooks for Large Snakes: For larger snakes, use a hook to guide the snake into a safe handling position. This can reduce stress and provide control without forceful restraint.

Special Considerations:

  • Always approach from the side rather than directly above, which could be perceived as a threat.

5. Horses

Low-Stress Techniques:

  • Positive Reinforcement: Offer a treat or scratch in a favoured spot (like the neck) to reward calm behaviour.
  • Cross-Tying or Tying Techniques: Instead of heavy restraint, cross-tie the horse in a familiar, safe space, ensuring it can move its head slightly without feeling trapped.
  • Gentle Haltering: Use a soft halter, being sure to avoid sudden jerks or pulling. Take your time to approach and fit the halter calmly.
  • Slow and Steady: Move at a steady pace, using soft commands. Horses respond well to a calm and consistent tone.

Special Considerations:

  • Horses can be highly reactive to touch. Always introduce touch gradually, starting in areas where they are most comfortable (e.g., neck or shoulders).

6. Sheep

Low-Stress Techniques:

  • Group Handling: Sheep feel safer in groups, so avoid isolating them for handling whenever possible. Work with small groups to reduce their stress.
  • Minimal Physical Force: Gently guide sheep using your hands under the chin and support the body without rough handling.
  • Tipping Method (for procedures): Gently “tip” the sheep onto its rump for procedures like shearing or hoof trimming. This method safely immobilizes the animal without causing stress.

Special Considerations:

  • Speak quietly and avoid fast movements, as sheep are easily startled.

7. Cows

Low-Stress Techniques:

  • Haltering Slowly: Use a halter or headgate to guide the cow, avoiding sudden movements. Cows can be led calmly if approached and handled gently.
  • Positive Reinforcement: Offer feed or treats after procedures to encourage positive associations with handling.
  • Chutes for Minimal Stress: If necessary, use chutes that restrict movement but do not cause discomfort or panic.

Special Considerations:

  • Avoid yelling or rough handling, as cows can become frightened easily, leading to difficult behaviour.

8. Lizards

Low-Stress Techniques:

  • Gradual Handling: Slowly pick up the lizard, supporting the body and tail with both hands. Allow the lizard to explore your hand and become familiar with your touch.
  • Use Gloves for Protection (if necessary): If the lizard tends to scratch or bite, wear soft gloves, but ensure your grip remains gentle and calm.
  • Limit Handling Time: Keep handling sessions short to avoid stressing the lizard, and always return it to its enclosure once the procedure is complete.

Special Considerations:

  • Ensure the handling area is warm, as reptiles can become stressed if they are too cold.

9. Rabbits

Low-Stress Techniques:

  • Support the Body Fully: Always lift the rabbit by supporting its chest and hindquarters to prevent kicking or injury. Hold it close to your body for added security.
  • Towel Wrap (if necessary): For rabbits that are particularly nervous or aggressive, wrap the rabbit gently in a towel, keeping only the head exposed. This prevents thrashing and scratching.
  • Minimal Movement: Avoid sudden movements and keep the rabbit in a quiet, calm environment to reduce fear.

Special Considerations:

  • Never pick up a rabbit by its ears or scruff. Always provide full body support to prevent injury.

 

Watch

The following video, ‘Performing a health examination’ (6:11 min) demonstrates how to perform a general health examination of a cat. While you are not expected to know how to examine a cat, pay close attention to the various ways in which the cat is restrained during the different stages of the examination.

Methods for safely restraining dogs

Two dogs breed american pit bull with a mistress in the park during a walk. The woman holds two dogs on a leash and barely restrains them

The two most popular restraints for dogs are the:

  1. Lying down restraint
  2. Headlock restraint.

You can also use these restraint techniques for cats.

Remember that you may need to muzzle the dog before you start your restraint.

Lying down restraint
  1. Start by standing alongside the dog. Make sure that the front of your body is along the side of the dog.
  2. Coming from over the top of the dog, hold the front and hind leg that is closest to you.
  3. Ask someone to hold and guide the dog’s head as you gently pull the dog’s legs out from under them. At this point, there may be some struggling, so be prepared.
  4. Once the dog is down do not let go of the legs otherwise, the dog will be able to stand again.
  5. Using your elbow at the front of the dog gently apply pressure to the dog's neck. This will prevent the dog from lifting its head, allowing you to have control.

Dr Sophia Yin demonstrates how to (and how not to!) position a dog on its side in the following video (0.27 min).

Headlock restraint
  1. Stand beside the dog, facing the dog’s body.
  2. Place your forearm snugly around the dog’s neck and hold the head still (headlock formation).
  3. Place your other arm under the dog's belly close to the hips. Hold this position firmly.
  4. Some dogs may find it difficult to stand like this so they can lie down. When the dog is lying down, place your other hand (that would have been under the dog) around the dog’s body holding the body firmly into your body.

Methods for safely restraining cats

A veterinarian's hand strokes a sick cat, a problem with pet

There are several different ways to restrain cats. Three of the most popular cat restraints are the:

  1. side restraint
  2. cat bag restraint
  3. head-raising restraint.
Side restraint
  1. Use the same technique as with dogs to position the cat on its side.
  2. Hold the leg that is closest to the table just above the elbow joint. Place your forearm across the cat’s neck and shoulder with the minimal amount of pressure required to stop the cat from getting up.
Cat bag restraint
  1. Place the cat’s head into the opening at the top of the bag.
  2. Tighten the neck opening so the cat cannot get its front foot out.
  3. Either hold the cat off the table and zip the bottom up or turn the cat onto its back to zip the bottom up.
  4. Be careful of the cat’s fur and tail when zipping the bag up.
  5. The bag can then be unzipped slightly to allow particular limbs to be exposed.
  6. Mesh cat bags allow the cat to be shampooed and rinsed while in the bag.

Head-raising restraint
  1. Hold the cat's front legs with one hand.
  2. With the other hand hold the cat’s head and raise it to the roof, stretching the cat's neck out.
  3. You can also stretch the cat over the examination table to allow for extra stretching.

Methods for safely restraining rabbits

veterinarian and helper in uniform take care and treat rabbit sick in clinic,young female vet injecting medicine into a rabbit's hip,a man restrained a bunny, selective focus at bunny

Rabbits need to be restrained properly as they can be very wriggly and can easily seriously injure themselves with incorrect restraint or if you drop them. The most popular way to restrain a rabbit, other than with just your hands, is with towel wrapping.

Towel wrapping
  1. Place the towel, blanket or another piece of cloth on the examination table.
  2. Pick up the rabbit, ensuring that you are always supporting its back, and place the rabbit in the middle of the towel.
  3. Wrap the towel under the neck and around the body of the rabbit leaving only the head and ears out.

Methods for safely restraining birds

Small Pretty House Sparrow (Passer Domesticus) sits in the palms. Young sparrow chick in female hands. the concept of closeness with nature. Caring for chicks

The type of restraint to use on a bird will depend on the size and type of bird.

Small birds

Many small birds are very sensitive to restrictions to their breathing, including any pressure on their body during handling and restraint. Small birds are also very sensitive to high and low ambient temperatures, which also affects their ability to breathe. Signs that a bird is in respiratory distress include:

  • gaping (holding their mouth open)
  • panting
  • closed eyes
  • drooping head
  • lethargy (Palmer et al. 2022, p. 586).

The bander’s grip or ringer’s grip is the most ethical way of restraining small birds. This hold is effective for birds about the size of a pigeon or smaller and allows you to control the head and wings with one hand, while allowing the body to expand for free breathing.

A person holding a bird

Place your hand over the back of the bird and position its head between your pointer and middle finders. Gently, but firmly, wrap your thumb and index finger around the bird to pin its wings to its sides. You can release one wing at a time to examine or treat them, if necessary.

If using a towel to restrain the bird, hold the bird around the neck and ensure the towel is not too tight around the bird’s body.

Large birds

Larger birds, such as chickens, ducks, geese and swans, will require two hands to restrain. Place one hand on either side of the bird’s body, securing the wings, then lift it up. You can then tuck the bird under one arm or wrap one arm over the bird and use the other hand to control its head and beak so that it doesn’t bite you or any other staff members.

Birds of prey
A person holding a bird of prey

The most dangerous part of a bird of prey (raptor) is its feet. When restraining birds, such as owls, hawks and falcons, use thick gloves (falconer’s gloves) and hold them around their “lower body and upper legs, so that the wings and legs are secured” (Olsen 2022, p.595).

For smaller birds, you may be able to contain the wings and feet in one hand. For larger species, you will need both hands. Use one hand to hold and separate the thighs and the other hand to wrap around the wings and tail. Covering the head with a loose bag or properly fitted falconry hood will help keep the bird calm (Olsen 2022, p.595).

Knowledge check 8

Case Study

Isolated happy black and white border collie put his paws on the table and with his head raised up joyfully looks at the camera. Isolated dog.

At Happy Paws Veterinary Clinic, a nervous dog named Max, a medium-sized Border Collie mix, has been brought in for a routine check-up and vaccination. Max has a history of anxiety during veterinary visits, and he is particularly fearful of restraint. As the vet and the vet assistant prepare to restrain Max for his examination, his behaviour starts to escalate due to fear.

Background on Max:

  • Breed: Border Collie mix
  • Age: 5 years old
  • History: Known to be anxious during veterinary visits, particularly uncomfortable with physical restraint. In previous visits, he has growled, backed away, and attempted to escape when restrained.
  • Behaviour: Initially calm but becomes increasingly fearful when handled.

Restraining Max: The Initial Attempt


The veterinarian (Dr. Amy) and Veterinary Assistant (Emma) prepare for the routine check-up. Dr Amy explains to Emma that they must approach Max with care, as his behaviour may worsen if he feels trapped or threatened.

Dr. Amy:
"Emma, let's start by approaching Max slowly. He’s already showing signs of nervousness—his ears are back, and he’s licking his lips. We need to avoid any sudden movements."

Emma:
"Got it. I’ll approach him from the side, not directly in front, and let him sniff my hand first."

(Emma crouches down, offering her hand for Max to sniff. Max hesitates but takes a few sniffs. His tail is tucked, and he appears uneasy but doesn’t growl.)

Dr. Amy:
"Good job. Now, gently put the leash on him. We’ll use it to guide him, but don’t pull too tight. Let him feel like he’s in control for now."

(Emma carefully slips the leash on Max. As she tries to guide him onto the exam table, Max starts resisting, pulling backward and panting heavily.)

 

Signs of Escalating Fear


Max’s fear begins to increase as he is led toward the exam table. His body becomes stiff, his tail tucks further under his body, and his eyes widen. He starts to pant and whine, showing clear signs of distress.

Dr. Amy:
"Emma, stop for a moment. Max is getting too scared. See how his panting has increased, and he’s trying to back away? If we force him now, it will only make things worse."
Emma:
"Yes, I noticed. He seems much more anxious than when we started."

 

Calming Max Down: Adjusting the Approach

Dr. Amy:
"Let’s change our approach. First, we’ll take him off the exam table. He’s feeling too threatened up there. Let’s get him back on the floor where he feels safer."

(Emma gently lowers Max to the floor, allowing him to stand on solid ground. Dr. Amy kneels beside him, softly stroking his neck.)

Dr. Amy:
"Let’s give him a few moments. Sometimes just being off the table and on the ground can help them calm down. I’ll also try using some treats to distract him."

(Dr. Amy pulls out some small treats from her pocket and offers one to Max. He sniffs it cautiously before taking it, though he still looks wary.)

Dr. Amy:
"Great, he’s eating the treats. That’s a good sign. Let’s give him a few more before we try anything else. Emma, why don’t you try giving him one too? He might respond well to positive reinforcement from both of us."

(Emma offers Max a treat, speaking softly and calmly. Max takes it and his panting slows down slightly. His ears start to relax, though he is still on edge.)

Dr. Amy:
"Okay, now that he’s a little calmer, we’ll keep him on the floor for the exam. I’ll examine him here while you gently hold him. Let’s avoid using too much restraint—just hold him enough to prevent him from moving too much."

Emma:
"Understood. I’ll keep my arm loosely around his chest and talk to him while you work."

(Emma kneels beside Max, placing one arm lightly around his chest while continuing to speak softly to him. Max’s breathing remains a little fast, but he stays still.)

 

Successful Low-Stress Restraint


Dr. Amy begins the examination while Emma maintains light restraint on Max. As Dr. Amy listens to Max’s heartbeat and checks his vitals, Max remains tense but manageable. Emma continues offering calm words and occasional treats. They keep the restraint as minimal as possible, focusing on keeping Max calm rather than forcing him into position.

Dr. Amy:
"Well done, Emma. He’s doing so much better now that we’ve kept him on the ground. His stress level dropped significantly once we took the pressure off."
Emma:
"I can see that. He’s still a bit anxious, but he’s not trying to pull away anymore."
Dr. Amy:
"Exactly. If we had forced him earlier, he might have started growling or even snapping at us. By going slower, we’re making this a much better experience for him."

 

Max’s behaviour initially worsened due to fear when placed on the exam table. His signs of distress—such as panting, whining, and stiff body language—clearly indicate that the restraint method was too stressful for him. By recognizing these signs early, Dr. Amy and Emma adjusted their approach to reduce his anxiety.

Using low-stress techniques, such as keeping Max on the floor, offering treats, and using minimal physical restraint, they could complete the examination without escalating his fear or provoking aggressive behaviour.

Key Learning Points:
  • Recognizing Signs of Stress: Understanding the dog’s body language was crucial in identifying when the situation was becoming too stressful.
  • Adapting Restraint Methods: By shifting from the exam table to the floor and using treats, the veterinary team calmed Max down.
  • Minimal Restraint: Using just enough restraint to keep Max from moving without forcing him into an uncomfortable position helped keep him calm.
  • Positive Reinforcement: Treats and gentle words helped create a more positive experience, even for a nervous dog like Max.

 

This scenario highlights the importance of adapting restraint techniques to each individual animal's behaviour and using low-stress methods to improve the overall experience for both the animal and the veterinary team.

Case Study

Horse portrait. Horse on nature. Portrait of a horse, brown horse. At Happy Paws Equine Care, a horse named Blaze, a 7-year-old Thoroughbred, has been brought in for a routine hoof examination. Blaze is known to be skittish, especially when unfamiliar people or procedures are involved. As the veterinarian, Dr. Kate, and the veterinary assistant, Tom, prepare to examine Blaze, his behaviour starts to become more erratic due to fear.

Background on Blaze:

  • Breed: Thoroughbred
  • Age: 7 years old
  • History: Known to be nervous during veterinary procedures, especially when handled by unfamiliar people. In the past, Blaze has pulled back and stomped when restrained too quickly.
  • Behaviour: Initially calm in the paddock but becomes anxious when led into the veterinary area.

Restraining Blaze: The Initial Attempt


Dr. Kate and Tom approach Blaze in the examination yard. Blaze appears alert but keeps a close eye on his surroundings. Dr Kate reminds Tom that they must use a gentle approach, as Blaze has a history of reacting poorly to being restrained.

Dr. Kate:
"Tom, we’ll start by getting Blaze used to us being close. He’s watching us pretty closely, so he’s already feeling a bit uncertain. Let’s take it slow and give him time to settle."

Tom:
"Right, I’ll approach from the side. I’ll keep my movements slow and stay calm."

(Tom approaches Blaze from the side, avoiding direct eye contact to keep Blaze at ease. He reaches out his hand, letting Blaze sniff it. Blaze snorts and shifts his weight but doesn’t move away.)

Dr. Kate:
"Good. Now rest your hand on his neck and rub gently. Horses respond well to touch, especially in familiar spots like the neck or shoulder. We’ll let him get comfortable with us before we move on to the restraint."

(Tom places his hand on Blaze’s neck and starts to stroke gently. Blaze’s ears flick back and forth, showing he’s still alert but not panicking.)

 

Signs of Escalating Fear


As they prepare to lead Blaze into the stocks for the hoof exam, he starts to show more signs of discomfort. His breathing quickens, he stomps one of his back feet, and he begins to toss his head slightly, showing he’s becoming increasingly agitated.

Dr. Kate:
"Hold up, Tom. Blaze is getting a bit too worked up. See how he’s stomping and his head’s going up? He’s not comfortable with this situation. Let’s back off for a moment and give him a break."
Tom:
"Yeah, I see what you mean. Should we try walking him around a bit to relax him?"

Dr. Kate:
"Good idea. Let’s take him for a quick walk around the yard. It’ll help take his mind off the stocks, and he’ll feel like he’s got more space."

(Tom leads Blaze slowly around the yard, giving him time to move and relax. Blaze’s breathing starts to slow down, and he seems more at ease with the change in environment.)

 

Calming Blaze Down: Adjusting the Approach


After walking Blaze for a few minutes, they bring him back towards the stocks, but this time, they don’t try to move him in immediately.

Dr. Kate:
"Alright, Blaze is looking a bit more relaxed now. Let’s try again, but this time, we’ll keep him outside the stocks. I’ll take a look at his hooves right here on the ground. No need to rush him in and make things worse."

Tom:
"Got it. I’ll keep his lead rope loose, but I’ll stay close in case he tries to move off."

(Tom stands at Blaze’s side, keeping a loose grip on the lead rope. Dr. Kate crouches down slowly beside Blaze, talking softly to him while she inspects his hooves.)

Dr. Kate:
"Good boy, Blaze. You’re doing well. Just stay still, mate."

(Blaze’s ears flicker again, but he remains mostly calm. Dr. Kate continues her exam, gently lifting each hoof in turn while Tom keeps Blaze steady.)

 

Using Positive Reinforcement


After the examination, Dr. Kate and Tom used positive reinforcement to ensure Blaze remained calm and associated the procedure with a positive experience.

Dr. Kate:
"Let’s give him a few treats now. He did well, and we want him to remember this as a good experience."

(Tom reaches into his pocket and pulls out a few horse treats, offering them to Blaze. Blaze nuzzles the treats from Tom’s hand, his posture visibly more relaxed.)

Tom:
"That worked a treat, no pun intended! He seems to have settled right down now."
Dr. Kate:
"Exactly. By giving him space and not forcing him into the stocks, we’ve kept his anxiety low. If we had pushed him, we could’ve ended up with him panicking, pulling back, or even kicking."

 

Blaze initially showed signs of escalating fear when he was being led into the stocks. His body language—quickened breathing, foot stomping, and head tossing—indicated that the restraint process was making him more anxious. By recognising these signs early, Dr. Kate and Tom adjusted their approach to reduce his stress.

Rather than forcing Blaze into the stocks, they used alternative techniques, such as walking him around to calm him and performing the exam outside the stocks to keep him comfortable. Additionally, positive reinforcement with treats helped Blaze associate the experience with something positive, ensuring he would be more cooperative in future exams.

Key Learning Points:
  • Recognising Stress in Horses: Blaze’s body language indicated his discomfort, which allowed Dr. Kate and Tom to adjust their approach before his behaviour worsened.
  • Adapting Restraint Techniques: By performing the exam outside the stocks, they reduced the pressure on Blaze and allowed him to feel more in control.
  • Minimal Restraint: Using minimal restraint kept Blaze calm and made the procedure safer for both the horse and the veterinary staff.
  • Positive Reinforcement: Treats and calm handling created a positive association, reducing Blaze’s anxiety for future visits.

 

This scenario highlights the importance of reading a horse’s behaviour and adjusting handling techniques to ensure the safety and well-being of both the horse and the veterinary team at Happy Paws Equine Care.

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